Almost two years ago, I was in the Philippines for the last time, walking Manila for hours and falling a little bit in love with the chaos, the energy, and the people of Manila.
This time I returned with the same plan: go for a walk, get (slightly) lost, say hi to strangers, and let the city show me whatever it wants to show me. The result was a long, sweaty day on foot that took me from a calm start near Rizal Park all the way to the busier edges of Pasay, and then over to Makati. On the second day, I ended my trip in Poblacion, with a great cold brew coffee and a surprise fiesta.
My walking route: Rizal Park to Malate, Pasay, and Makati
This was not a perfectly planned “follow-this-map” walk. It was more like: pick a direction, take smaller streets when possible, and accept that Manila will throw a few wrong turns at you. And the most important: never stop exploring!
I walked roughly 20 km in total across the weekend, with the first day being the long push from Malate towards Makati.
Malate: on small streets towards Manila Bay
I started around Rizal Park with a relaxed vibe. After getting surrounded by loud traffic, I tried to head towards Manila Bay using smaller side streets to avoid some of the heavy traffic. That plan lasted about five minutes.
From there I ended up deep in Malate, around Barangay 668. This is where the walk really started to feel like Manila again — busy side streets, big shopping malls, kids saying hi, and a lot of small moments that made the city feel welcoming. I also wandered into Korea Town in Malate.
Pasay: traffic, side streets, and getting lost
After Malate, I moved towards Pasay. That is where the “less traffic” idea fully collapsed — Pasay is busy, loud, and full of movement. But that’s totally fine.
I spent quite some time on side streets and honestly had several moments where I had no clue where I was. But that is also part of why I like filming and walking in Manila. People talk to you. People ask where you are coming from. Kids jump into the frame and laugh. In many other places, a camera makes people step away. In the Philippines, it often does the opposite.
Makati: heading into a different Manila
The next day, I explored Poblacion (Makati). You can feel the shift as you get closer. Different buildings, a different pace, and a noticeably more upscale vibe in some areas. But even here, Manila still stays Manila.
My first mission that morning: to find a good coffee. I stopped at Good Sh*t Coffee (Google Maps) and had one of the best cold brews I’ve had in Manila. It’s a great little break spot, especially after a long, hot walk.
Poblacion itself feels totally different from Malate and Pasay. It’s the kind of area where you find small shops and little surprises on every street corner. It’s easy to just walk around without a strict plan. And then I got lucky — it was fiesta time in the Barangay Poblacion. I could feel that local celebration energy in the streets, with people out and about and the whole area feeling extra alive.
Why I will return to Manila
I know Manila is not “easy travel.” It’s hot. It’s noisy. The traffic is wild. You will get lost at least once. But I will say it clearly: I love it here, and I know I will come back.
The main reason is the people. Every time I am in Manila, strangers smile, wave, and talk. Kids are curious. People are proud to share where they live. Even when I’m tired and dripping in sweat, it never feels like I’m walking through a city that doesn’t want me there.
That is something special. And it is something I do not take for granted.
So yes — Manila, I will be back.
