Roi Et stole my heart: 3 days in Thailand’s underrated Isaan city

After wrapping up my first Isaan journey, I knew it wouldn’t be my last. A few months later, I found myself booking a last‑minute trip during Chinese New Year – and this time, my destination wasn’t Udon Thani or Khon Kaen, but Roi Et. A place most international travelers have never heard of… yet.

Why I ended up in Roi Et

The idea for Roi Et started away from Thailand – on a rooftop in Manila. I was sitting there with my good friend Christoph, talking about future trips and how much I wanted to see more of Isaan. At some point he told me about a personal coach in Thailand who helped him lose weight. He passed me her Instagram handle, and we stayed loosely in touch.

Fast forward about half a year. I was at home in Hong Kong, Chinese New Year was coming up, and I had a few free days with no real plans. Instead of overthinking it, I did what usually leads to the best trips: I booked a ticket.

Roi Et is not the obvious choice if you look at Thailand from the outside. Most people think about Bangkok, Phuket, or Chiang Mai. But that was exactly the point. I wanted something slower, more local, and a bit off the usual tourist trail. Roi Et delivered all of that – and more.

About Roi Et: where it is and how to get there

Roi Et is a province in the heart of Thailand’s Isaan region, in the northeast of the country. The city of Roi Et is the provincial capital. Life here moves at a different pace than in Bangkok or on the islands – fewer tourists, more everyday Thai life, and a lot of friendly “hello” and smiles when you walk down the street.

Getting there is easier than it looks on the map, but you need to plan a bit:

  • By plane: At the time of my trip there were two daily flights with AirAsia between Bangkok Don Mueang (DMK) and Roi Et. The flight takes around 1 hour. Roi Et airport is small and relaxed.
  • By bus: There are also buses from Bangkok’s main terminals heading into Isaan. Expect roughly 7–8 hours, depending on route and traffic.

The name “Roi Et” literally means “one hundred and one” in Thai. The story I was told in the city is simple and charming: in the past there were 11 gates around the old town – ten plus one – which written together becomes 101. Over time, this turned into the name of the city itself.

Today, around 1.3 million people live in Roi Et province, spread across towns and countryside, but the city center still feels manageable and walkable. You have a lake, temples, markets, and the famous tower all within a short drive.

My 3‑day Roi Et itinerary

I spent three days exploring Roi Et with a mix of city sights, temples outside town, and a few completely unexpected highlights. Below is the route I took, with a short impression of each place and how it felt to be there.

Day 1 – First impressions and forest temples

Bueng Planchai & Roi Et 101 Tower

We started the first full day at Bueng Planchai, the big lake right in the middle of Roi Et. It is a relaxed place where people walk, run, and sit on benches, and it gives you a good first feel for the city.

From there it is just a short walk to the Roi Et 101 Tower, a 101‑meter‑tall landmark that dominates the skyline. Inside the tower you take an elevator up to the viewing platforms and a small temple on the top floors. On a clear day, you get full panoramic views over the city, the lake, and the surrounding flatlands.

Some months later, the government opened as well a zipline from the tower – hard to imagine when you stand on top, but it shows that Roi Et is slowly thinking about tourism.

Wat Pa Kung & Maha Virachariyanusorn Pagoda

Later that day we drove about 25 kilometers outside the city to Wat Pa Kung, a temple hidden in the forest. The highlight here is the Maha Virachariyanusorn Pagoda, a unique pagoda built as a replica of the famous Borobudur temple in Java, Indonesia.

Before you reach the pagoda, you walk through a small park and around a lake. The atmosphere is quiet, and you hardly see any other international visitors. The temple complex also includes what local signs describe as Thailand’s first natural sand pagoda, built between 1992 and 2004.

Maha Virachariyanusorn Pagoda
Maha Virachariyanusorn Pagoda

Chedi Maha Mongkol Bua

We ended the day at Chedi Maha Mongkol Bua, another temple in the countryside. It is not the most famous temple in the region, but it was a calm stop to round off a packed first day before heading back toward Roi Et city.

Chedi Maha Mongkol Bua
Chedi Maha Mongkol Bua

Day 2 – A massive chedi, a cave, and the best meal

Phra Maha Chedi Chai Mongkhon

Day two started early. We drove around 80–83 kilometers out of town to visit Phra Maha Chedi Chai Mongkhon, a huge temple complex built on a hill. The morning was surprisingly cold for Thailand – around 13°C – but the sky was completely blue.

The dimensions are as massive as they look: 101 meters long, 101 meters wide, and 101 meters high. Surrounding the main building, you find quiet corners, small shrines, and forest views. Even though you can clearly see that this place can get busy in high season, on the day we visited it felt almost empty and incredibly peaceful.

Pha Mok Miwai viewpoint

On the way back we stopped at a small viewpoint called Pha Mok Miwai. It’s a simple cliff viewpoint with a short walk and great views over forest and farmland. For a few minutes we were completely distracted by hundreds of butterflies flying around us – one of those small travel moments you never really plan but always remember.

Waterfall Cave Soda (Tam Soda)

From there, we continued down to Waterfall Cave Soda (Tam Soda). In rainy season, water runs over the cliff and past the temple, turning it into a real waterfall spot. During my visit it was the dry season, so only a few drops came down the rock – but the cave, the temple buildings, and the idea of how it looks in full flow still made it an interesting stop.

Waterfall Cave Soda (Tam Soda)
Waterfall Cave Soda (Tam Soda)

Waterside lunch at Huai Phung Yai Reservoir

The late lunch at Huai Phung Yai Reservoir turned into one of my favorite meals in Thailand. We found a simple waterside restaurant with wooden platforms. The Isaan dishes were full of flavor and simply awesome – and the whole setting made it one of those meals you think about long after the trip is over.

The best Thai food
The best Thai food

The big Golden Naga of Roi Et

Driving back toward the city, we passed the big Golden Naga near the roadside. It is impossible to miss: a huge golden serpent rising next to the road, watching over the entrance to the city. It is more of a quick photo stop than a long visit, but it adds nicely to the feeling that Roi Et quietly hides a lot of striking sights.

Day 3 – Buddhas, quiet temples, and an aquarium surprise

Wat Burapha Phiram and the big standing Buddha

On day three I started from my hotel and walked about one to two kilometers through town towards Wat Burapha Phiram, home to a very large standing Buddha statue. Like many temples in Roi Et, it was calm, with just a few local visitors.

What struck me most here – and in many other temples in the area – was the quiet. If you are used to busy temples in Bangkok or Phuket, the atmosphere in Roi Et feels very different. You have space to walk, to look around, and to just sit for a while.

Wat Nuea & Phra Phuttha Chayanti Mahamuni Bophit

From there I continued on foot to Wat Nuea, passing through small streets and local neighborhoods. I did not expect too much, but the temple turned out to be much bigger than it looks from the outside.

One of the highlights is a colorful Buddha set high above the main building, with white walls and bright details that really stand out. Somewhere here is also Phra Phuttha Chayanti Mahamuni Bophit, another impressive Buddha image that adds to the overall complex.

Phra Phuttha Chayanti Mahamuni Bophit
Phra Phuttha Chayanti Mahamuni Bophit

Muang Roi Et Municipal Aquatic Animals Center (Roi Et Aquarium)

In the afternoon we headed back towards the city center and visited the Muang Roi Et Municipal Aquatic Animals Center, often just called the Roi Et Aquarium. It is not huge, but it is free to enter and offers a nice look at local fish and aquatic animals.

If you travel with kids or you simply want a short, air‑conditioned break between temples, it is a relaxed stop that fits easily.

Why Roi Et stole my heart

After four days in and around Roi Et, I left with the feeling that this place is seriously underrated.

Life runs slower here than in Bangkok or Hong Kong. People greet you in the street, smile when they see a camera, and are genuinely curious why you chose their city. The food – especially Isaan dishes like som tam, grilled meat, and simple rice dishes – is excellent almost everywhere.

Is it worth taking the trip to Roi Et? For me, absolutely yes. If you enjoy destinations that are still mostly visited by locals, where you can slow down, talk to people (in Thai), and discover temples without crowds, Roi Et deserves a spot on your Thailand list. I am pretty sure I will like it.